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On the heels of the highly anticipated opening of the Jean Nouvel–designed Louvre Abu Dhabi at the end of 2017, the United Arab Emirates capital is riding the wave of its rise to cultural-destination fame with a slew of new art openings, hotels, and investment in its historic sites. The ever-sunny gulf city has positioned itself as the cultural counterpart to neighboring party destination Dubai, where glitzy skyscrapers seem to rise daily. While Abu Dhabi, too, has its share of ultra-luxury towers, current development focus is on museums and heritage experiences such as Saadiyat Island, where a standout roster of the world’s top architects have designed fantastical structures to house the arts and artifacts. But beyond viewing the nation’s vast collections of treasures, the design-loving traveler can now take a route somewhat less-traversed, to new discoveries in the customs of the once-nomadic people that founded the seven emirates. Abu Dhabi is embracing its Bedouin origins while retooling these traditions as luxury experiences for the discerning modern explorer.
What to Do
In the cultural heart of the city, near its oldest souq, recently updated by Foster + Partners, is the most ancient and significant heritage site in Abu Dhabi. Dating to 1795, the Qasr Al Hosn fort is where the city was established, but until this year it had not been publicly accessible. Encompassing the historic fort, the Cultural Foundation, the National Consultative Council building, and the House of Artisans, the site is a first stop for an education in the city’s history and its most important cultural export: Al Sadu, the weaving tradition of the Bedouin women that is currently on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Elements for Urgent Safeguarding. Visitors can also catch a visual- or performing-arts show at the Cultural Foundation, which also opened a three-story children’s library in September.
Just a few blocks away, near the Founder’s Memorial (dedicated to Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the UAE’s first president) by American artist Ralph Helmick, is one of the most sumptuous new destinations in the city. Qasr Al Watan (meaning “Palace of the Nation”) opened in March within the presidential palace complex to give a glimpse into the nation’s governance. Decorated with Turkish marble and crystal chandeliers, the palatial building explores Arabian heritage and design through exhibitions in ornate rooms where Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed Al Nahyan receives international visitors, hosts dinners, and arranges majlis (council assembly). The on-site research library is available for study, and a walk through the grounds presents spectacular examples of Islamic formal gardens.
If you’ve not yet been to the Louvre Abu Dhabi, it is a must-see, not only for the fantastic collections on view but also for the sensation within the dappled light under its stunning mashrabiya-style dome. Since its debut two years ago, the museum has welcomed 2 million visitors. Though the rest of Saadiyat Island is currently sand and construction sites, new museums are set to begin popping up this year, starting with the Zayed National Museum by Foster + Partners, whose feather-like protrusions are actually a glass atrium designed to look like the wings of a falcon (falconry is a nationally loved sport, which began with the Bedouins). AD Hall of Famer Frank Gehry recently announced that his long-delayed Guggenheim Abu Dhabi would soon begin construction; AD100 David Adjaye recently won a competition to design three houses of worship there; and the Abu Dhabi Performing Arts Center by Zaha Hadid Architects is also on the books.
Where to Eat
Hotel restaurants in Abu Dhabi are top-notch food destinations, where chefs whip up both native delights and international fare. At the Abu Dhabi Edition, hotelier Ian Schrager’s first venture in the region, the Oak Room serves up one of the city’s best steaks (its main competition is Ray’s Grill, atop the downtown Jumeirah at Etihad Towers hotel). To mix with the locals for a nighttime snack, the adjacent harborside shopping areas are bustling with families noshing on Middle Eastern street foods.
For regional cuisine, look no further than the Emirates Palace hotel, famous for its sheikhs-only royal suites and its gold-flake cappuccino. At restaurant Mezlai, dishes are all modern updates to classic Arabian food: za’atar, camel, and dates are made even more mouth-watering. The decor itself is also a treat, designed as a luxury Bedouin tent and surrounded by the gardens of its five-star venue.
Where to Stay
A crop of new hotels in Abu Dhabi give luxury travelers the pick of the litter at the beach, in the desert, or in the city. At the Jumeirah at Saadiyat Island, lap up the crystal-clear waves of the Persian Gulf on its private beach or enjoy a spa treatment, both of which have inspired its relaxing decoration and a gulf-facing balcony in most rooms. This eco-friendly resort strives to be plastic-free, while the new Rixos Saadiyat Island nearby is the city’s first all-inclusive experience.
In the city, the Abu Dhabi Edition is a new perspective. As one of the only luxury hotels in the historic Al Bateen Marina district, it strives for a more integrated experience where one leaves the front doors to enter onto the docks of a bustling harbor. In 2020, the Fairmont Marina Abu Dhabi will open on a shore not too far away, with a private open-sea beach and serviced apartments if you decide to move in.
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And in the desert, where camel-riding, dune-bashing (as terrifying as it sounds for those with a weak stomach), and falconry are all on offer, Qasr Al Sarab is a magical option. Deep in the Rub’Al Khali desert, about a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi city, the resort is surrounded by flame-colored dunes as far as the eye can see and is the only hotel in this ecologically protected area.
